“Wine is bottled poetry,” wrote Robert Louis Stevenson. But in Zmajevac, it feels more like a full-blown novel—one with underground chapters, bold characters, and a surprising finish. Tucked into Croatia’s far east, just a cork’s throw from the borders with Hungary and Serbia, Zmajevac might not be the first place that comes to mind when planning a wine trip. But it should be. This tiny Baranja village is home to one of the most charming, unpretentious, and memorable wine roads in the country—steeped in history, soaked in flavor, and lined with gatori, traditional underground wine cellars dug straight into the hillside.

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The Charm of the Underground

The Zmajevac wine road isn’t a road in the usual sense—it’s more of a hillside community of winemakers, all connected by grassy paths and arched cellar doors. Here, wine tasting doesn’t happen at sleek marble counters under pendant lights. It happens deep underground, in centuries-old tunnels where the temperature stays cool and the stories are always warm.

These gatori are unlike anything else in Croatia’s wine regions. Hand-dug, dimly lit, and often carved by the winemakers' own ancestors, they’re equal parts wine bar, family museum, and social club. Each one feels personal—because it is.

What to Drink (and Eat)

The wines here are as easy to love as the people pouring them. You’ll find Baranja’s signature varietals like Graševina—fresh, crisp, and dangerously drinkable—as well as Frankovka (Blaufränkisch), Pinot Noir, and even some unexpected sparkling wines making a quiet entrance.

One of the best parts of tasting in Zmajevac? No formal tastings. No pressure to know your tannins from your terroir. You sit, you sip, you chat, and chances are someone’s grandma brings out a plate of kulen, fresh cheese, or warm bread. It’s the kind of place where wine culture feels more like wine community.

The People Behind the Pour

This is a land of small, often family-run wineries where every bottle has a face—and usually a story. Winemakers here are more like hosts than vendors. Expect to be welcomed like a friend, offered “just one more glass,” and then sent home with a few more bottles than you planned for.

Some favorites to visit:

Josić Winery – One of the most well-known names in the region, Josić blends tradition and innovation beautifully. Set in a restored old mill with its own restaurant, it’s the perfect stop for those who want to pair robust reds or aromatic Graševina with Baranja’s rich cuisine. The ambiance is cozy and authentic, the kind of place where a casual tasting can easily turn into a long lunch and a few new friendships.

Zlatno Brdo – Meaning “Golden Hill,” Zlatno Brdo is one of Zmajevac’s rising stars. Nestled in a picturesque setting, the winery offers a curated selection of expressive wines, often crafted in small batches with great attention to detail. It’s a place that’s serious about wine, but never pretentious. The winemakers are passionate and down-to-earth, eager to share stories behind each vintage—and perhaps pour you a glass of their excellent Pinot Noir or aged Graševina straight from the barrel.

Gerštmajer Winery – A true family affair with deep roots in Baranja, Gerštmajer is known for its warm hospitality and honest, terroir-driven wines. The winery is tucked along a scenic stretch of the wine road and offers an inviting cellar experience that feels more like visiting a friend’s home than a formal tasting room. Expect beautifully made Frankovka, approachable whites, and maybe even a rakija or two before you leave.

When to Go

The best time to visit? Any time the weather’s good. But fall, during harvest season, brings an extra buzz to the region. And if you’re lucky enough to catch one of the local wine festivals (like the Wine Marathon), don’t hesitate—just book a room and bring your walking shoes.

Final Sip

Zmajevac is what wine travel should be: relaxed, real, and rooted in place. It’s about the discovery of new flavors, new friends, and maybe a new favorite wine you can’t even pronounce.

So if you’re craving a wine weekend with a twist of charm and a splash of something unexpected, head east, the gatori are open, the barrels are full, and the glasses are waiting.

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